Flying high

Do you wake up and ever feel like a kite..

Ever so lightly flying up in the clear blue sky..

Soaring and soaring into the infinite high

And then you feel the pull and the lull

Comes from the thread that’s holding you..

A tug here, a tug there nudging you

Telling you where to go, where not to

You soar higher, trying to break free…

You feel the stretch, the tension, the edge of breaking free

And then you are tugged back again

You fall in line and you soar higher and higher into the clear blue sky

There is that tug again and you stretch with all your might

You hear the snap and then feel the space

You float endlessly with the wind

Where the wind carried you

And you notice, you are not soaring anymore

You are lower and lower and you feel for that familiar tug and the pull

Wishing for it to hold you up..

Alas, the tug, the pull, it was holding you up and not holding you down..

Letting you soar into the infinite blue sky…

Do you wake up and ever feel like a kite?

Picnic at Hesaraghatta Lake

Egged on by a “not so bad” response to the travel writings so far .. I have friends to thank for that.. and most importantly the detailed statistics that Google gives me about my page.. I must say that between the two, google takes the cake for weightage ... J

So here I am and a bolder me that now will try to revisit the trips that I have been on last year and refresh the memories. It is a challenge to feel the same way as when you are actually on the trip versus on the anniversary of the trip.. But I am going to make the attempt anyhow.

Here we go, so it was one of those weekends where a few friends have been discussing on where we should go for a picnic.

There were a few candidates and as you may have guessed from my style by now, I sort of bulldoze travel planning conversations.

A few options we considered were Bannerghatta National park, Bheemeswari, Mekkedattu, several small resort’ish places on Kanakapura road.

But the back of my mind I had Nrityagram set. So I had this hidden agenda in my mind to consider several and then by order of elimination pitch the idea of why Nrityagram is the best out of all.

Nrityagram is a dance village located in Hesaraghatta. It is a lovely setting surrounded by trees and if you are during visiting hours you can observe the dance classes. Now I am a dancer so you can guess why I would lean towards this.

I was searching up on how to plan this and then gave my itinerary idea (below) to the guys.. (My husband and a dear friend of ours)

We start early Sunday morning : 7ish

Stock some bread, cucumber and carrot and some salad spreads on Saturday.

Get to Hesaraghatta (Grasslands) by 8am Have a picnic breakfast.

Spend couple of hours.

Nrityagram opens at 10:00 am. We visit Nrityagram, spend an hour or so there and head back around lunch time

All counter proposals welcome….

First things first the last sentence was just a rhetoric, I wasn’t expecting any counter proposal J

So this was pretty much the skeletal plan .We agreed on the outline (well that was a no brainer duh!)

And this is how it turned out to be.

We also had another couple friend of ours with a daughter same age as ours join us.

We decided to start around 7 and meet midway. Now, our daughter is not a great fan of road trips. Her threshold is 5km and then she gets sick. But boy! She was so geared for it. With her eye only on the goal.

After a good deal of navigational issues (I had no part there!!), we arrived at the first stop. So this got added after the itinerary was planned. There is a peacock reserve park at Byalkere, close to Hesaraghatta and I promised my daughter she could go see peacocks. The woods are lovely, the walk pleasant in the morning and you are far removed from the city’s blaring. The kids had a lot of fun. Even though we didn't have any peacock sighting.

We spent around 45 mins and then back to the cars to hunt for a picnic spot. The original idea was Hesaraghatta grasslands as the picnic spot. We were driving and we could see a lake (not the lake we eventually went to) and there evolved the idea of picnic by the lake instead of the grasslands. Well, it was also influenced by the fact that we were pretty much lost and had no idea which way the grasslands were.

Guided by the locals, we arrived at a place where we could park the cars and the Hesaraghatta lake right in front of us. We found a nice spot to set up our picnic table and mats and settled down.

Hesaraghatta Lake is a man-made lake/reservoir, built across the Arkavathy river. The weather was lovely, clear sky, breeze by the water. And the grass so green. 

Hesaraghatta resservoir

Picnic spot - with meadowy grass

We settled down with our fancy picnic table (Courtesy to Anu and Ganesh our friends) and we had colonies of ants to keep us company through our breakfast. We made our sandwiches, from scratch. We played ball with the kids. 

Throwball... :) Literally

I got it!!

And thats how you play!!

UP, UP and up in the air

It was a lovely picnic and a great way to spend the Sunday morning. We wound up towards mid day 12ish when the kids started getting sleepy and headed back to the city. Yes, you notice we skipped Nrityagram. The calm at the picnic spot was so good to trade and we stayed back. That ones for another Sunday..

For those that would like to do something similar

·         If you want to follow the same itinerary : Here is the route : http://goo.gl/maps/j7yOl

o   This is from Jalahalli cross, Peenya. And the directions towards Hesaraghatta lake

o   What to do : Laze around, bird watching

·         Alternate : you can visit Nrityagram. They are open for visitors till noon. And breakfast/lunch at Taj kuteera :

o   http://www.nrityagram.org/

o   http://www.tajhotels.com/Leisure/Kuteeram,Bangalore/default.html

·         Our Native Village at Hessarghatta : This one’s an experience to savour, hopefully I get around to writing this.

o   http://www.ournativevillage.com/

o   What to do : Check in and enjoy the idyllic setting and relive the good old days.

On a shepherds trail :: tale of mountains, snow and blue sky

It was a much awaited and exciting trip back to the Himalayas. The last sojourn with the mighty Himalayas was in Bhutan, but ofcourse it was a road trip. This one is special and now has been long overdue.. and boy! did it start with all the right notes..

We were booked on the Air Asia from Bangalore to Chandigarh. As we waited to board we realized that we were on the maiden flight from Bangalore to Chandigarh. So we were welcomed with some goodies and the crew made it real fun onboard with quiz and games and great food (unlike the stereotypical airline food) and they spread a cool vibe.

We arrived at Chandigarh and we were greeted by loud and noisy welcome with dhol. We happened to get to this lovely city on one of those rare days of heavy downpour. The cab guys set us up with another gentleman who was headed in the same direction as us so that we could share the cab. The wait of 20 mins for the cab was not even noticed by us for the friendly banter and anecdotes about the city kept us occupied. Our co-cab-friend hails from Chandigarh and is working in Bangalore since over a decade now. He gave us such lovely snippets about the city that has been planned by a French urban planner back in 1953. Apparently he was so psyched by the number 13, so there is no sector 13 in Chandigarh.
We also met another group that was headed to Manali to do a road trip Manali to Leh and back. We agreed to meet up at the bus pick up point.
Sanjay our cab friend, dropped us at a restaurant and tips on where to eat and gave us his number incase we were stuck. After a great dinner, we asked around how to get to Sector 43 bus stand and the staff at the hotel was more than glad to guide. He asks us where are you headed and we say Manali.. He tells us that the people there are amazing.. and he adds to the end " I come from Manali"
We hailed an auto and got to Sector 43. The first few mins and hours in the city and it is heartwarming with people helping and guiding you without second thoughts. It left me with thoughts, wondering the last time I did that for anyone...
We re-grouped with the biker gang and as we talked and bragged about who booked what and based on what research, we realized that the buses we are booked on have all combined and we are all waiting for the same bus, which seemed to be forever on the way.
We took turns nagging the driver and spent the next couple of hours taking jabs and digs on each other.
We boarded the bus bang 12 midnight and are headed to Manali.
The first sight I woke up to in the morning is of the river Beas flowing right below as we were on a stretch of road without any rail at the edge. Sheer drop along the sides. From here on its sheer beauty and power of nature.
You are greeted by the foothills of the Himalayan range lush green with pine and deodar and the next moment you are right along the spiteful Beas flowing with fury, threatening to spill over.
Sights of apple orchards, laden with ripe apples greet you all the way towards Manali.

We arrived at Manali around 9.30 am and headed to our hotel Keylinga Inn. We hailed an auto and the auto driver doubles up as our guide and points out various spots and we were completely entertained by snippets and stories around the various landmarks.
We checkin at Keylinga - It is a quaint little place that welcomes you with verandahs brightly decked with colorful flowers - marigold and others. The rooms are spacious, cozy and warm. We headed for a hearty breakfast of hot parathas over a healthy dose about Himalayas from the "Indian Mountaineer"
We learnt a lot about the worlds youngest mountain range which has over 100 peaks above 6000m.

After a restful morning, we headed out to explore Manali early evening. We visited the Vasisht famous for the hot sulphur springs, where you can take a dip. And later we headed for a walk in the Old Manali.

Old Manali is the rustic, backpackers destination. The steep street is lined with shops, cafes and Internet cafes which are filled with people. There are several of the "hole in the wall" cafes which rank pretty high on the Lonely planet list.
We chose to dine at the Lazy dog lounge and relished our pasta and carribean coffee. We decided to tuck in early so that we are ready for the hardwork the next day

We woke up to a pleasant surprise of lovely clear weather and plenty of snow on the peaks. Our friends at Keylinga tell us that we can look forward to lovely weather.
Lapping up a hearty breakfast, we gear up and meet our fellow trekkers.
Our guides Prashant Tawar and Durga, with  a hotelier from Rajasthan and his nephew, and a photographer from Delhi on an assignment to make us all look good.
Meeting, Greeting and plenty of story sharing we all gel pretty quick. We started the hike from a place which is  40 min drive from Manali. Our bags packed with the mules and horses, we started hiking.
The first day is a short hike of 2.5 to 3 hours to a place called Chika. It gets its name from the "Chika nala".
We passed shepherds and sheep grazing along the way, meandering streams with crystal clear water. This is a lush green area in the Kullu valley. We passed oak trees, deodar and wild flowers along the slopes.

Sheep grazing and meandering stream

 Walking Bridge across river

We arrived at our camp site along the nala and right next to a waterfall. By now, we have had conversations around history of the invasions, Portuguese, port of Muziri in Kerala,  Travancore, Malabar, Superstitions in India about crossing the sea, and the origin of the word "Atak" (A funny story of the lake atak, which the soldiers wouldnt cross)

Camp at Chika

Camp at Chika

The next day of the trek, we woke up to bad weather with drizzle and dark clouds.
Prashant tells us that we should wait to see if it clears up. Luckily for us, it clears and we head out from Chika camp around 9am. On this day, we leave Chika and head towards Balu ka ghera.

We learn that the name stands for the sand you will find in the camp area. We walk along the left of the river all through and come to a waterfall, fill our bottles with fresh mountain water a luxury for the next few days.

Hike route Chika to Balu ka ghera

This day, the hike is along boulders. We cross the river - icy cold water making you numb in seconds. We continue to trek and get to a place with a lot of rock faces. By now, it starts to rain and rain does drench your spirits as well as bags if you do not have ponchos. (For those first timers Ponchos is an essential trek item).
We walk further from here and get to the valley of Balu ka ghera. The good company makes up for the dull weather and we quickly set up shop in the common tent and go on for hours together on various topics. The staff kept us pampered with warm maggi and several cups of hot "chai"..

Misty evening at Balu ka Ghera

The third day of the trek is the key and the highlight as we get to the Hampta pass and cross it. We are looking at a stiff climb, (atleast it was for me being a novice, will definitely be better at it next time) towards the pass.

Balu ka ghera Camp site in the early morning sun

View of Indrasan peak from the camp

 The start of the hike, we are greeted by flowers and beautiful meadows and the terrain starts to get moderately steep after that.

Grassy meadow as we start the hike

Rani Nala along the hike path

Trek path gradually gets rocky and steeper

After 4 hours of trek, we broke for lunch and a break for 30 mins.

Post lunch we continue the ascent and the last stretch after the ridge is walk on the snow for 20 mins

View of glacier across as we climb towards the pass

 Being at that altitude for the first time, did give some uneasiness. But the best advice I got and I am glad I listened. Keep drinking lots of water and Keep walking, DO not stop.. I did just that

and lo and behold we were at the pass at 14000ft. the exhilaration that we felt there is just not possible to convey in words.

At 14000 feet above sea level

We spent few mins at the pass which is windy and extremely cold and start the descent. Well the descent was some surprise, we didn't really read up on the route so I am quite caught unaware by the sharp descent staring at us.

This side of the pass is Spiti valley and what a stark contrast you already see in the landscape. Towards the end of our climb down we are briefly hit by hail.

View across Hampta pass towards Spiti valley

 It is a descent that takes about an hour and a half to two depending on your pace and after a grueling 7 and half hour long day we hit the camp site at Sheagoru. We were all spent and even the chai that greets us couldn't really pull our spirits high. Because we were so disappointed at having to spend the rest of the evening inside tents as it was a rainy evening.
It was a queasy evening, with the long walk and the strain getting to me. I decide to call it a night really early.
The next morning is perhaps the most beautiful one I have woken up to so far. Not a speck of cloud and a blue of the sky that you never see on the plains.

After being hit by rain every evening at the camp, this last day, we decide to skip visiting Chandratal and head back to Manali instead.
So this day, we trek from Sheagoru to Chatru. Its a descent all through but the terrain is rocky and we hike along boulders. We start by crossing the ice cold river again and then start hiking.

Rocky descent and river Chandra flowing below

Its fairly easy except some parts which are tricky ridges.

The descent takes us close to 4 hours in all. And the landscape completely different from where we started from.


At the last stretch we walk a small stretch over a glacier. We are told that the area was a much bigger glacier but was bombed a long time ago. And we are near the river Chandra now, which eventually join Bhaga to become ChandraBhaga and flows in Pakistan.









This journey has been huge for me personally, a little bit of an exposure therapy. I wasn't affected by the heights and narrow path we were walking along the ridges, the tent and sleeping bags did not give me claustrophobia and the icy cold water in the river did not freak me out. I felt safe on natures lap. And the best advice the ones that have lived their life in the mountains give you is respect the nature, respect the mountains.
It was a beautiful journey, and all through the only one you are fighting and befriending all the while is you. Its your inhibitions and your strength.
Fresh air, water from any stream you walk by and a mind that is humbled by the sight you see around, that is what I brought back with me. And the tag line "If sheep can do so can you" :)

We passed so many flocks of sheep and struck conversation with the shepherds in charge. It was moving to learn their way of life. We met those that had been walking for months, weeks and keeping track of the sheep. Their family being the flock of sheep, the mules and the dogs that watch over them. The question that amused us was asked by one named Surender :: "Aap picnic pe aaye ho? " (Are you here on a picnic?  We laughed our heart out and said it was anything but a picnic

We ate at Chatru in a dhaba - thulping hot rice and rajma and looking forward to the drive back to Manali via much famed Rohtang pass. (Pile of dead corpses is the literary translation of the name).
It is a ride I will not forget for a really long time to come. Streams and the road merge and run together and the road itself being narrow, the sight of sheer drop to the Chandra river below.
Snow clad peaks and dry mountains - The Himlayas - the youngest mountain range on earth and one that is still growing, is an experience you cant get enough of.
We crossed Rohtang and took customary pictures. Rohtang pass is now a popular tourist destination
We hit Manali early evening. We settled down at Keylinga for a night and spent the next day at "The Himalayan" resort. This was the best ever closure for the trip. We pampered ourselves in this place which is modeled to look like a gothic building. And it oozes with coziness, warmth and totally a place to laze around. We did just that in the idyllic setting on the last day of our holiday. Top it off with great food at the Cafe Bella Vista set among pine woods overlooking Old Manali.
We left Manali for Chandigarh by the volvo in the evening and arrived in Chandigarh wee hours of saturday morning.
The experience of the trip continued as we stayed at Gurudwara community room. We were treated to hot hot parathas in the courtyard and spent half a day exploring the city and we must say we fell in love with the city.
As we headed back to our lives in Bangalore, I felt rejuvenated. Having been around the mountains that have stood witness to all the history that only they know. Standing testimony to those who made the pass successfully and to those that failed. The reality that you are only a very small part in the bigger scheme of things.

Tips for planning in Manali:

• Recommendation for stay ::
• Keylinga Inn :: Especially if you are trekking with GIO :: www.keylinga-inn.com
• Casa Bella Vista :: We were floored by this cafe, guess is that the cottages are just as nice. It is set among pine woods over looking Old Manali. Great cafe , vegetarian menu. www.casabellavistamanali.com
• Our favourite recommendation :: The Himalayan spa and resort :: http://www.thehimalayan.com. Idyllic, Gorgeous setting. Pamper yourself
• 
  
• Things to do in Manali :: Explore Old Manali or find the adventure activity that appeals to you Or  Do nothing
• For trekking/adventure :: our pick GIO :: www.GIO.in

A Summer in Coorg

And so it was a long weekend coming up, one that we had marked for a trip up the Nilgiris atleast 2 months before. BUT, and there is a big one there, we didn’t plan for the scores of others who would have a similar plan. We had an image of where we wanted to be in Ooty and as we realised it was booked out, we began scouting for alternate and zeroed in on Coorg.

Now Coorg/Madikeri is a coffee heaven and from the base of the hills to the slightly higher range it has something to suit all holiday. After trying our luck with almost 15 places, we got through at a resort in Kakkabe – Misty woods.

A little bit about Coorg……Coorg or kodagu is located on the Western Ghats.  It is here that the river Cauvery originates at Talacauavery. It is one of the significant producers of coffee in India. As coffee needs shade, the coffee plantations are dotted with trees which then have spices like cardamom, pepper grown and also vanilla. Coorg is also known for the honey made here. Coffee plantation was originally started by the British planters and eventually bought by locals.

Read on here for more on Coorg culture, cuisine and geography. http://www.coorgcreek.com/aboutcoorg.htm

The highest point in Coorg is Tadiyandamol and is a very popular hike/trek route. Part of it is accessible by a jeep ride and also has multiple trails to the peak. On a clear day, it is said you can see the coastline of Arabian Sea along Kannur, the neighbouring district in the state of Kerala

Coorg has it all – river, forest, trek/hikes, tranquil. You choose the kind of holiday and there is something on the offer. Depending on what you want to do, set up base in the right part of Coorg.

We set up shop in Kakkabe, close to Nalkanad palace and there is a trail up the Tadiyandamol from here which is approx. 6Km. We had a “do nothing” holiday with our toddler. So we spent 2 days sipping hot coffee, exploring the small water bodies (though water levels are very low at this time of the year) around the estate. We were delighted to see that our little girl loved the hikes as much as we did. She even braved a leech attack and was cool about it. If you are visiting after the rains, you will be greeted by plenty of waterfalls and streams as the waterfalls are rainfed.  So there it was, misty hills of coffee , lovely hikes, books for company and coffee to sip – our holiday.

Where you stay sort of determines what you do and vice versa so choose your camp wisely so you don’t spend too much time on the road

Some picks from me

Coffee trail : School estate, Palace estate, , Spring dale, Honey valley,

Along the river : Dubbare Elephant camp, Amanvana resort.. (they have a river trek)

Link to homestays in kodagu ::

 http://goindia.about.com/od/homestays/tp/12-Best-Homestays-In-Coorg.htm

http://www.coorghomestays.com/

http://www.coorghomestays.co.in/

 Some of the places may not be exactly as they seem to be in pictures, choose wisely and carefully

Have a wonderful holiday J

I am the joy!

I stared and stared

Watching you slip past me

Flowing silently,

taking all that meant to me with you

I stared at the colours

I stared at the spirit

I stared at the vibrance that was once me

I saw the rainbow…. The pot of gold… et al

Mystified….. Where was I left behind..

Did I miss a sign, a turn, a path…

I stared …

At the colours being washed away from my memories

Puzzled at how strained it is to remember…

I stared at the joy …. Looking at my face

That was once me…

I was the flow that carried the colours…

I was the joy that carried the vibrance…

I was the life that carried the spirit…

I stared at the peak then and the clouds with the silver lining…

I stare at the path now and the limits and the boundaries…

I look at me ….

I see the joy, the colours, the vibrance

Monsoon in Sakleshpur

Amongst a lot of anxiety over the effect of “Nilam” … we decided to head to Sakleshpur anyway to savour a much needed break from the city’s clamor.

Sakleshpur is about 250 km from Bangalore. The route takes you on the highway by passing most of the towns until you get to Sakleshpur – a small town.

Nestled in western ghats with lush greenery... its like a painting with strokes of green all around. 
Our destinaion was Kadamane estates which is around 25 Km from Sakleshpur town. Roughly 45 mins drive...
We were greeted by rains as soon as we arrived and it pretty much stayed a constant companion all through.

Kadamane estate is owned by the Murugappa group, a leading industrialist group of South India. It is probably one of the few tea estates in Sakleshpur. The estate lays spread over about 10000 acres. If you ask the locals they say “lakka illa sir”…. Translated to “no account for the area”.

Tea is cultivated over approximately 3300 acres and lush green forest thrives in the rest of the area.

Our abode for the next couple of days is a beautiful two bedroom cottage swanked by tea plantation all around.

We are greeted by the staff with freshly made masala chai which was just lovely considering that the tea leaves are straight from the estate.

“Nilam” made her presence felt heavily all through our stay making it damp, wet and exciting.

We spent the evening soaking in the greenery, calmness and togetherness of the family.

Oh, about the travelers, the much needed break was made by the family of 6 of us…

My husband, me and our 8 month old daughter, my husband’s parents and brother.

We spent the evening over a few games of Rummy.

Dinner was a homely affair in the dining hall in the main bungalow. Kitchen is open and you can see for yourself the food being prepared and they don’t mind you walking into the kitchen. This was a huge advantage when travelling with a baby.

After a sumptuous and tasty dinner, we decided to call it a day rather night!

The next morning,after a lovely breakfast, the young blood headed out for a stroll in the tea estate.

The winding paths, the drizzle and the tea plantation creates such a romantic setting for creative minds.

The setting called for some photographs and we slowed down watching the grass hoppers hop, colors of insects,patterns formed by workers plucking tea.... till the torrential rain played spoil sport.

The rain deterred only the camera not us, we marched on hiking up a small hill....braving the wind and the rain and the fear of leaches for me… At this point the rain was just lashing onto our faces and the umbrellas rendered useless and I at one point was worried it might be transformed to a parachute.

Couple of leeches on the feet sealed the deal. We decided to head back.

A pit stop to get rid of the leeches and we headed back our cottage.

Post lunch, we decided to make the Scorpio to good use and went out on a drive in the estate.

After half hour little Advika decided to rebel and we headed back to the base camp.

We were told about the 5 acres viewpoint which is very close and can be driven to in the scorpio and we decided to do that in the evening…

What a view it was!! The wind hits your face and the view is so pristine. You can see a stream far down on the other side of the hill. The guide tells us that you can hike down the hill to the waterfall and stream.

A good half hour and back to the cottage. We look around for activities for the evening and are told that there are some board games to keep us busy. We resorted to a game of carrom and sealed the night with a round of Pictionary.

Weather was supposed to clear out the next day and we called out to "Nilam" to retreat and the morning did seem clear. The original plan for the day was a short trek to Rottikal around 3 Km, a picnic lunch at Doraigundi, which is a lake about 7km from the cottage . But sadly this was not to be as the drizzle was still on. So we continued our exploration of the estate along another route and started packing up.

We had a chance to take a peek at the old Billiards/snooker room in the bungalow. It takes you far back to the yester years. Everything is preserved in tact… the huge arm chairs next to the fire place.

The telephone, which is still working…..

The gramaphone and radio with speakers....

Before lunch we decide to visit the Kadamane Tea factory. We had a guide explaining to us the various steps from the green leaves to the tea powder packed…. There are 10 grades of tea generated here.

We bought some tea of the grade “BOP” which I later found from the internet to be Broken Orange Pekoe This consists of small tea leaves or pieces of large Leaves.It is considered a medium grading for the classification of tea leaves.

Doraigundi visit eluded us owing to the rains and we decide to head back to Bangalore.We packed our bags and bid good bye to Kadamane – Sinna Dorai’s bungalow, telling ourselves that we will be back for sure. Afterall we still have a picnic lunch to do at Doraigundi... :)

It is imperative to say that the hospitality of the staff really soothed the stay and we struck such a rapport with them in two days