It was a much awaited and exciting trip back to the Himalayas. The last sojourn with the mighty Himalayas was in Bhutan, but ofcourse it was a road trip. This one is special and now has been long overdue.. and boy! did it start with all the right notes..
We were booked on the Air Asia from Bangalore to Chandigarh. As we waited to board we realized that we were on the maiden flight from Bangalore to Chandigarh. So we were welcomed with some goodies and the crew made it real fun onboard with quiz and games and great food (unlike the stereotypical airline food) and they spread a cool vibe.
We arrived at Chandigarh and we were greeted by loud and noisy welcome with dhol. We happened to get to this lovely city on one of those rare days of heavy downpour. The cab guys set us up with another gentleman who was headed in the same direction as us so that we could share the cab. The wait of 20 mins for the cab was not even noticed by us for the friendly banter and anecdotes about the city kept us occupied. Our co-cab-friend hails from Chandigarh and is working in Bangalore since over a decade now. He gave us such lovely snippets about the city that has been planned by a French urban planner back in 1953. Apparently he was so psyched by the number 13, so there is no sector 13 in Chandigarh.
We also met another group that was headed to Manali to do a road trip Manali to Leh and back. We agreed to meet up at the bus pick up point.
Sanjay our cab friend, dropped us at a restaurant and tips on where to eat and gave us his number incase we were stuck. After a great dinner, we asked around how to get to Sector 43 bus stand and the staff at the hotel was more than glad to guide. He asks us where are you headed and we say Manali.. He tells us that the people there are amazing.. and he adds to the end " I come from Manali"
We hailed an auto and got to Sector 43. The first few mins and hours in the city and it is heartwarming with people helping and guiding you without second thoughts. It left me with thoughts, wondering the last time I did that for anyone...
We re-grouped with the biker gang and as we talked and bragged about who booked what and based on what research, we realized that the buses we are booked on have all combined and we are all waiting for the same bus, which seemed to be forever on the way.
We took turns nagging the driver and spent the next couple of hours taking jabs and digs on each other.
We boarded the bus bang 12 midnight and are headed to Manali.
The first sight I woke up to in the morning is of the river Beas flowing right below as we were on a stretch of road without any rail at the edge. Sheer drop along the sides. From here on its sheer beauty and power of nature.
You are greeted by the foothills of the Himalayan range lush green with pine and deodar and the next moment you are right along the spiteful Beas flowing with fury, threatening to spill over.
Sights of apple orchards, laden with ripe apples greet you all the way towards Manali.
We arrived at Manali around 9.30 am and headed to our hotel Keylinga Inn. We hailed an auto and the auto driver doubles up as our guide and points out various spots and we were completely entertained by snippets and stories around the various landmarks.
We checkin at Keylinga - It is a quaint little place that welcomes you with verandahs brightly decked with colorful flowers - marigold and others. The rooms are spacious, cozy and warm. We headed for a hearty breakfast of hot parathas over a healthy dose about Himalayas from the "Indian Mountaineer"
We learnt a lot about the worlds youngest mountain range which has over 100 peaks above 6000m.
After a restful morning, we headed out to explore Manali early evening. We visited the Vasisht famous for the hot sulphur springs, where you can take a dip. And later we headed for a walk in the Old Manali.
Old Manali is the rustic, backpackers destination. The steep street is lined with shops, cafes and Internet cafes which are filled with people. There are several of the "hole in the wall" cafes which rank pretty high on the Lonely planet list.
We chose to dine at the Lazy dog lounge and relished our pasta and carribean coffee. We decided to tuck in early so that we are ready for the hardwork the next day
We woke up to a pleasant surprise of lovely clear weather and plenty of snow on the peaks. Our friends at Keylinga tell us that we can look forward to lovely weather.
Lapping up a hearty breakfast, we gear up and meet our fellow trekkers.
Our guides Prashant Tawar and Durga, with a hotelier from Rajasthan and his nephew, and a photographer from Delhi on an assignment to make us all look good.
Meeting, Greeting and plenty of story sharing we all gel pretty quick. We started the hike from a place which is 40 min drive from Manali. Our bags packed with the mules and horses, we started hiking.
The first day is a short hike of 2.5 to 3 hours to a place called Chika. It gets its name from the "Chika nala".
We passed shepherds and sheep grazing along the way, meandering streams with crystal clear water. This is a lush green area in the Kullu valley. We passed oak trees, deodar and wild flowers along the slopes.
We arrived at our camp site along the nala and right next to a waterfall. By now, we have had conversations around history of the invasions, Portuguese, port of Muziri in Kerala, Travancore, Malabar, Superstitions in India about crossing the sea, and the origin of the word "Atak" (A funny story of the lake atak, which the soldiers wouldnt cross)
The next day of the trek, we woke up to bad weather with drizzle and dark clouds.
Prashant tells us that we should wait to see if it clears up. Luckily for us, it clears and we head out from Chika camp around 9am. On this day, we leave Chika and head towards Balu ka ghera.
We learn that the name stands for the sand you will find in the camp area. We walk along the left of the river all through and come to a waterfall, fill our bottles with fresh mountain water a luxury for the next few days.
This day, the hike is along boulders. We cross the river - icy cold water making you numb in seconds. We continue to trek and get to a place with a lot of rock faces. By now, it starts to rain and rain does drench your spirits as well as bags if you do not have ponchos. (For those first timers Ponchos is an essential trek item).
We walk further from here and get to the valley of Balu ka ghera. The good company makes up for the dull weather and we quickly set up shop in the common tent and go on for hours together on various topics. The staff kept us pampered with warm maggi and several cups of hot "chai"..
The third day of the trek is the key and the highlight as we get to the Hampta pass and cross it. We are looking at a stiff climb, (atleast it was for me being a novice, will definitely be better at it next time) towards the pass.
The start of the hike, we are greeted by flowers and beautiful meadows and the terrain starts to get moderately steep after that.
After 4 hours of trek, we broke for lunch and a break for 30 mins.
Post lunch we continue the ascent and the last stretch after the ridge is walk on the snow for 20 mins
Being at that altitude for the first time, did give some uneasiness. But the best advice I got and I am glad I listened. Keep drinking lots of water and Keep walking, DO not stop.. I did just that
and lo and behold we were at the pass at 14000ft. the exhilaration that we felt there is just not possible to convey in words.
We spent few mins at the pass which is windy and extremely cold and start the descent. Well the descent was some surprise, we didn't really read up on the route so I am quite caught unaware by the sharp descent staring at us.
This side of the pass is Spiti valley and what a stark contrast you already see in the landscape. Towards the end of our climb down we are briefly hit by hail.
It is a descent that takes about an hour and a half to two depending on your pace and after a grueling 7 and half hour long day we hit the camp site at Sheagoru. We were all spent and even the chai that greets us couldn't really pull our spirits high. Because we were so disappointed at having to spend the rest of the evening inside tents as it was a rainy evening.
It was a queasy evening, with the long walk and the strain getting to me. I decide to call it a night really early.
The next morning is perhaps the most beautiful one I have woken up to so far. Not a speck of cloud and a blue of the sky that you never see on the plains.
After being hit by rain every evening at the camp, this last day, we decide to skip visiting Chandratal and head back to Manali instead.
So this day, we trek from Sheagoru to Chatru. Its a descent all through but the terrain is rocky and we hike along boulders. We start by crossing the ice cold river again and then start hiking.
Its fairly easy except some parts which are tricky ridges.
The descent takes us close to 4 hours in all. And the landscape completely different from where we started from.
At the last stretch we walk a small stretch over a glacier. We are told that the area was a much bigger glacier but was bombed a long time ago. And we are near the river Chandra now, which eventually join Bhaga to become ChandraBhaga and flows in Pakistan.
This journey has been huge for me personally, a little bit of an exposure therapy. I wasn't affected by the heights and narrow path we were walking along the ridges, the tent and sleeping bags did not give me claustrophobia and the icy cold water in the river did not freak me out. I felt safe on natures lap. And the best advice the ones that have lived their life in the mountains give you is respect the nature, respect the mountains.
It was a beautiful journey, and all through the only one you are fighting and befriending all the while is you. Its your inhibitions and your strength.
Fresh air, water from any stream you walk by and a mind that is humbled by the sight you see around, that is what I brought back with me. And the tag line "If sheep can do so can you" :)
We passed so many flocks of sheep and struck conversation with the shepherds in charge. It was moving to learn their way of life. We met those that had been walking for months, weeks and keeping track of the sheep. Their family being the flock of sheep, the mules and the dogs that watch over them. The question that amused us was asked by one named Surender :: "Aap picnic pe aaye ho? " (Are you here on a picnic? We laughed our heart out and said it was anything but a picnic
We ate at Chatru in a dhaba - thulping hot rice and rajma and looking forward to the drive back to Manali via much famed Rohtang pass. (Pile of dead corpses is the literary translation of the name).
It is a ride I will not forget for a really long time to come. Streams and the road merge and run together and the road itself being narrow, the sight of sheer drop to the Chandra river below.
Snow clad peaks and dry mountains - The Himlayas - the youngest mountain range on earth and one that is still growing, is an experience you cant get enough of.
We crossed Rohtang and took customary pictures. Rohtang pass is now a popular tourist destination
We hit Manali early evening. We settled down at Keylinga for a night and spent the next day at "The Himalayan" resort. This was the best ever closure for the trip. We pampered ourselves in this place which is modeled to look like a gothic building. And it oozes with coziness, warmth and totally a place to laze around. We did just that in the idyllic setting on the last day of our holiday. Top it off with great food at the Cafe Bella Vista set among pine woods overlooking Old Manali.
We left Manali for Chandigarh by the volvo in the evening and arrived in Chandigarh wee hours of saturday morning.
The experience of the trip continued as we stayed at Gurudwara community room. We were treated to hot hot parathas in the courtyard and spent half a day exploring the city and we must say we fell in love with the city.
As we headed back to our lives in Bangalore, I felt rejuvenated. Having been around the mountains that have stood witness to all the history that only they know. Standing testimony to those who made the pass successfully and to those that failed. The reality that you are only a very small part in the bigger scheme of things.
Tips for planning in Manali:
We were booked on the Air Asia from Bangalore to Chandigarh. As we waited to board we realized that we were on the maiden flight from Bangalore to Chandigarh. So we were welcomed with some goodies and the crew made it real fun onboard with quiz and games and great food (unlike the stereotypical airline food) and they spread a cool vibe.
We arrived at Chandigarh and we were greeted by loud and noisy welcome with dhol. We happened to get to this lovely city on one of those rare days of heavy downpour. The cab guys set us up with another gentleman who was headed in the same direction as us so that we could share the cab. The wait of 20 mins for the cab was not even noticed by us for the friendly banter and anecdotes about the city kept us occupied. Our co-cab-friend hails from Chandigarh and is working in Bangalore since over a decade now. He gave us such lovely snippets about the city that has been planned by a French urban planner back in 1953. Apparently he was so psyched by the number 13, so there is no sector 13 in Chandigarh.
We also met another group that was headed to Manali to do a road trip Manali to Leh and back. We agreed to meet up at the bus pick up point.
Sanjay our cab friend, dropped us at a restaurant and tips on where to eat and gave us his number incase we were stuck. After a great dinner, we asked around how to get to Sector 43 bus stand and the staff at the hotel was more than glad to guide. He asks us where are you headed and we say Manali.. He tells us that the people there are amazing.. and he adds to the end " I come from Manali"
We hailed an auto and got to Sector 43. The first few mins and hours in the city and it is heartwarming with people helping and guiding you without second thoughts. It left me with thoughts, wondering the last time I did that for anyone...
We re-grouped with the biker gang and as we talked and bragged about who booked what and based on what research, we realized that the buses we are booked on have all combined and we are all waiting for the same bus, which seemed to be forever on the way.
We took turns nagging the driver and spent the next couple of hours taking jabs and digs on each other.
We boarded the bus bang 12 midnight and are headed to Manali.
The first sight I woke up to in the morning is of the river Beas flowing right below as we were on a stretch of road without any rail at the edge. Sheer drop along the sides. From here on its sheer beauty and power of nature.
You are greeted by the foothills of the Himalayan range lush green with pine and deodar and the next moment you are right along the spiteful Beas flowing with fury, threatening to spill over.
Sights of apple orchards, laden with ripe apples greet you all the way towards Manali.
We arrived at Manali around 9.30 am and headed to our hotel Keylinga Inn. We hailed an auto and the auto driver doubles up as our guide and points out various spots and we were completely entertained by snippets and stories around the various landmarks.
We checkin at Keylinga - It is a quaint little place that welcomes you with verandahs brightly decked with colorful flowers - marigold and others. The rooms are spacious, cozy and warm. We headed for a hearty breakfast of hot parathas over a healthy dose about Himalayas from the "Indian Mountaineer"
We learnt a lot about the worlds youngest mountain range which has over 100 peaks above 6000m.
After a restful morning, we headed out to explore Manali early evening. We visited the Vasisht famous for the hot sulphur springs, where you can take a dip. And later we headed for a walk in the Old Manali.
Old Manali is the rustic, backpackers destination. The steep street is lined with shops, cafes and Internet cafes which are filled with people. There are several of the "hole in the wall" cafes which rank pretty high on the Lonely planet list.
We chose to dine at the Lazy dog lounge and relished our pasta and carribean coffee. We decided to tuck in early so that we are ready for the hardwork the next day
We woke up to a pleasant surprise of lovely clear weather and plenty of snow on the peaks. Our friends at Keylinga tell us that we can look forward to lovely weather.
Lapping up a hearty breakfast, we gear up and meet our fellow trekkers.
Our guides Prashant Tawar and Durga, with a hotelier from Rajasthan and his nephew, and a photographer from Delhi on an assignment to make us all look good.
Meeting, Greeting and plenty of story sharing we all gel pretty quick. We started the hike from a place which is 40 min drive from Manali. Our bags packed with the mules and horses, we started hiking.
The first day is a short hike of 2.5 to 3 hours to a place called Chika. It gets its name from the "Chika nala".
We passed shepherds and sheep grazing along the way, meandering streams with crystal clear water. This is a lush green area in the Kullu valley. We passed oak trees, deodar and wild flowers along the slopes.
 |
| Sheep grazing and meandering stream |
 |
| Walking Bridge across river |
We arrived at our camp site along the nala and right next to a waterfall. By now, we have had conversations around history of the invasions, Portuguese, port of Muziri in Kerala, Travancore, Malabar, Superstitions in India about crossing the sea, and the origin of the word "Atak" (A funny story of the lake atak, which the soldiers wouldnt cross)
 |
| Camp at Chika |
 |
| Camp at Chika |
Prashant tells us that we should wait to see if it clears up. Luckily for us, it clears and we head out from Chika camp around 9am. On this day, we leave Chika and head towards Balu ka ghera.
We learn that the name stands for the sand you will find in the camp area. We walk along the left of the river all through and come to a waterfall, fill our bottles with fresh mountain water a luxury for the next few days.
 |
| Hike route Chika to Balu ka ghera |
This day, the hike is along boulders. We cross the river - icy cold water making you numb in seconds. We continue to trek and get to a place with a lot of rock faces. By now, it starts to rain and rain does drench your spirits as well as bags if you do not have ponchos. (For those first timers Ponchos is an essential trek item).
We walk further from here and get to the valley of Balu ka ghera. The good company makes up for the dull weather and we quickly set up shop in the common tent and go on for hours together on various topics. The staff kept us pampered with warm maggi and several cups of hot "chai"..
 |
| Misty evening at Balu ka Ghera |
The third day of the trek is the key and the highlight as we get to the Hampta pass and cross it. We are looking at a stiff climb, (atleast it was for me being a novice, will definitely be better at it next time) towards the pass.
 |
| Balu ka ghera Camp site in the early morning sun |
 |
| View of Indrasan peak from the camp |
 |
| Grassy meadow as we start the hike |
 |
| Rani Nala along the hike path |
 |
| Trek path gradually gets rocky and steeper |
Post lunch we continue the ascent and the last stretch after the ridge is walk on the snow for 20 mins
 |
| View of glacier across as we climb towards the pass |
and lo and behold we were at the pass at 14000ft. the exhilaration that we felt there is just not possible to convey in words.
 |
| At 14000 feet above sea level |
This side of the pass is Spiti valley and what a stark contrast you already see in the landscape. Towards the end of our climb down we are briefly hit by hail.
 |
| View across Hampta pass towards Spiti valley |
It was a queasy evening, with the long walk and the strain getting to me. I decide to call it a night really early.
The next morning is perhaps the most beautiful one I have woken up to so far. Not a speck of cloud and a blue of the sky that you never see on the plains.
After being hit by rain every evening at the camp, this last day, we decide to skip visiting Chandratal and head back to Manali instead.
So this day, we trek from Sheagoru to Chatru. Its a descent all through but the terrain is rocky and we hike along boulders. We start by crossing the ice cold river again and then start hiking.
 |
| Rocky descent and river Chandra flowing below |
The descent takes us close to 4 hours in all. And the landscape completely different from where we started from.
At the last stretch we walk a small stretch over a glacier. We are told that the area was a much bigger glacier but was bombed a long time ago. And we are near the river Chandra now, which eventually join Bhaga to become ChandraBhaga and flows in Pakistan.
This journey has been huge for me personally, a little bit of an exposure therapy. I wasn't affected by the heights and narrow path we were walking along the ridges, the tent and sleeping bags did not give me claustrophobia and the icy cold water in the river did not freak me out. I felt safe on natures lap. And the best advice the ones that have lived their life in the mountains give you is respect the nature, respect the mountains.
It was a beautiful journey, and all through the only one you are fighting and befriending all the while is you. Its your inhibitions and your strength.
Fresh air, water from any stream you walk by and a mind that is humbled by the sight you see around, that is what I brought back with me. And the tag line "If sheep can do so can you" :)
We passed so many flocks of sheep and struck conversation with the shepherds in charge. It was moving to learn their way of life. We met those that had been walking for months, weeks and keeping track of the sheep. Their family being the flock of sheep, the mules and the dogs that watch over them. The question that amused us was asked by one named Surender :: "Aap picnic pe aaye ho? " (Are you here on a picnic? We laughed our heart out and said it was anything but a picnic
We ate at Chatru in a dhaba - thulping hot rice and rajma and looking forward to the drive back to Manali via much famed Rohtang pass. (Pile of dead corpses is the literary translation of the name).
It is a ride I will not forget for a really long time to come. Streams and the road merge and run together and the road itself being narrow, the sight of sheer drop to the Chandra river below.
Snow clad peaks and dry mountains - The Himlayas - the youngest mountain range on earth and one that is still growing, is an experience you cant get enough of.
We crossed Rohtang and took customary pictures. Rohtang pass is now a popular tourist destination
We hit Manali early evening. We settled down at Keylinga for a night and spent the next day at "The Himalayan" resort. This was the best ever closure for the trip. We pampered ourselves in this place which is modeled to look like a gothic building. And it oozes with coziness, warmth and totally a place to laze around. We did just that in the idyllic setting on the last day of our holiday. Top it off with great food at the Cafe Bella Vista set among pine woods overlooking Old Manali.
We left Manali for Chandigarh by the volvo in the evening and arrived in Chandigarh wee hours of saturday morning.
The experience of the trip continued as we stayed at Gurudwara community room. We were treated to hot hot parathas in the courtyard and spent half a day exploring the city and we must say we fell in love with the city.
As we headed back to our lives in Bangalore, I felt rejuvenated. Having been around the mountains that have stood witness to all the history that only they know. Standing testimony to those who made the pass successfully and to those that failed. The reality that you are only a very small part in the bigger scheme of things.
Tips for planning in Manali:
- Recommendation for stay ::
- Keylinga Inn :: Especially if you are trekking with GIO :: www.keylinga-inn.com
- Casa Bella Vista :: We were floored by this cafe, guess is that the cottages are just as nice. It is set among pine woods over looking Old Manali. Great cafe , vegetarian menu. www.casabellavistamanali.com
- Our favourite recommendation :: The Himalayan spa and resort :: http://www.thehimalayan.com. Idyllic, Gorgeous setting. Pamper yourself
- Things to do in Manali :: Explore Old Manali or find the adventure activity that appeals to you Or Do nothing
- For trekking/adventure :: our pick GIO :: www.GIO.in
